I just ordered a pound of leaf lard.
Those of you who have been following my food travails are probably thinking to yourself, “LARD!? She's finally cracked.”
But for those of you who know me well, you know I am fanatical about making a good pie crust. And my extensive research and hard work has paid off. People always ask for seconds and thirds of my pies. They have even told me that the crust is actually even better than the pie filling.
For years I have used Jeffery Steingarten's rendition of Marion Cunningham's crust (see “Pies from Paradise” in the book, “The Man Who Ate Everything”). He recommends a combination of butter and lard for the fat. You can also use butter and shortening — which I have commonly done. I have also very often used just butter which is also great.
I never felt good about the shortening. And now, after doing all of this research on good vs. bad fats, it turns out that shortening is one of the very worst things you can put in your gullet.
And it turns out that lard is pretty good for you! Even the (relatively) conservative NY Times says so: http://www.nytimes.com/2005/08/12/opinion/12kummer.html Food & Wine touts it, too:http://www.foodandwine.com/articles/lard-the-new-health-food
And there are zillions of other articles on the internet promoting the health benefits of lard, like this one: http://www.thehealthierlife.co.uk/article/3378/trans-fatty-acids.html
Who knew?
It also just so happens that lard is also the baker's top choice for pie crust. And best of all: leaf lard. According to Wikipedia: “The highest grade of lard, known as leaf lard, is obtained from the 'flare' fat deposit surrounding the kidneys and inside the loin.”
Gourmet pastry chefs and pastry aficionados reserve their highest praise for leaf lard. Again, in the NY Times: http://www.nytimes.com/2006/11/15/dining/15crus.html?ref=dining
I wanted to use it years ago when I first read about it (in some foodie book) but I didn't know where to find it. I think the author of the book said you could only find it in Asian community butcher shops. God bless the internet.
Needless to say I am switching over to leaf lard. Just as soon as my shipment arrives!
Here's where I got my leaf lard: http://www.sweet-briar-farms.com/
Meanwhile, I'm pondering what kind of turkey to buy for Thanksgiving. Turns out it is not such an easy decision.
Read this and your head will spin with all the options: http://www.ethicurean.com/2006/11/15/gobble-gobble-a-turkey-primer-and-resource-guide/
Organic vs. free range vs. antibiotic-free vs. heritage?
Here's the skinny (scroll to the bottom of the page for the chart): http://www.thenibble.com/reviews/main/meats/turkey-talk.asp
Cook's Illustrated did a piece this month on which turkey to buy. I normally trust Cook's implicitly. They are foodies to the core, and base their findings on empirical results from taste tests. However, I should have known something was amiss when I read the title of the article: “Should You Pay Top Dollar for Turkey?” The subtitle is even more alarming: “Turkey is pretty bland, so why pay $100 for a mail-order bird when supermarket options cost less than $2 a pound?”
My first reaction: Who's the cheapskate who wrote this article? I try not to base food buying decisions on cost. I base them on taste. I'd rather eat top quality filet mignon once a week than cheap steaks every night. But OK, I'll give it a chance.
They recommended Aaron's Best first. It is kosher, which means they kill the animal more humanely. But it doesn't say anything about organic, cage-free, or antibiotic-free.
However, Aaron's was tied with Walter's Hatchery Heritage Breed. http://www.walterspoultry.com/whyheritage.html
Looks like they are pastured/free range but I can't find any information about it. They are not organic. According to a website I found, they say “organic grain is prohibitively expensive”. Prohibitively expensive and yet they sell their turkeys for $7.14 per pound plus shipping? Hmmpphh. I would not eat one of those birds because he feeds them soy. Yuck. Soy-based grain is a no no. I could go on about the dangers of soy but just go ahead and google it. Also can't find out if they give their birds antibiotics. I'm betting they do.
Cook's tested a few brands of organic, pastured turkeys — and none of them did well. They did OK, but not better than Butterball. What Cook's DOESN'T tell you is the health risks associate with eating a Butterball turkey.
Sure, I might save a few bucks buying that brand, and it may taste a bit more tender and buttery - but do you know what they do to it to make it taste like that? Do you know how those turkeys are raised?
Turkeys raised on factory farms are hatched in large incubators and never see their mothers or feel the warmth of a nest. When they are only a few weeks old, they are moved into filthy, windowless sheds with thousands of other turkeys, where they will spend the rest of their lives. To keep the birds from killing one another in such crowded conditions, parts of the turkeys’ toes and beaks are cut off, as are the males’ snoods (the flap of skin under the chin). All this is done without any pain relievers—imagine having the skin under your chin chopped off with a pair of scissors. Millions of turkeys don’t even make it past the first few weeks of life in a factory farm before succumbing to “starve-out,” a stress-induced condition that causes young birds to simply stop eating.
By far the best-selling turkeys in the U.S. are the mass-produced, factory-farmed birds—Butterball, etc.—sold in supermarkets. Almost exclusively broad-breasted whites—a breed that’s also referred to as “large white” because of the size of its breast—these birds are typically raised in factory conditions, sometimes thousands to a barn, and may be treated with growth hormones to enhance their size and antibiotics to prevent disease. The birds tend to be raised quickly, in about twelve weeks, which yields a large and inexpensive supply but doesn’t allow the birds’ flavor to develop fully. Many factory-farmed birds are injected during processing with a solution that might contain water, stock, butter, or other seasonings to make the bird plumper, and more flavorful. That process produces a large bird that cooks up moist and tender, but it can also produce off-flavors and a mushy texture. Factory-farmed birds range in size anywhere from 8 to 28 pounds (one pound per person is a good serving guideline) and tend to be inexpensive—$1.50 or so per pound. (http://www.hurryburry.com/turkey.htm)
Yuck! Antibiotics and growth hormones! I will definitely not be purchasing that variety. Who wants a sick turkey pumped full of antibiotics and hormones that cause early-onset puberty in children?
Not I, said the duck.
Not I, said the cat.
Not I, said the dog.
It has to be organic (no pesticides) and pastured (much more nutritious).
Why are pastured birds better for you?
A study sponsored by the Department of Agriculture in 1999, for example, found that pastured chickens have 21 percent less fat, 30 percent less saturated fat, 50 percent more vitamin A and 400 percent more omega-3 fatty acids than factory-raised birds. They also have 34 percent less cholesterol. http://www.nytimes.com/2004/11/23/opinion/23barber.html?pagewanted=all (this is a great article BTW — well worth reading)
400% more omega-3 fatty acids! Plus no antibiotics or growth hormones. Plus you can go to sleep at night knowing that you ate a turkey that lived a happy life.
Is it worth the extra few bucks? I'd say so.
I think I'm going to go with Mary's Turkeys. Free-range, antibiotic-free, organic, and heritage (if available). I regularly buy Mary's chicken from Whole Foods and it tastes GREAT.
The organic turkeys sell for $2-3 per pound (a little more expensive than Aaron's Best) and the heritage birds sell for $4-6 per pound (cheaper than Walters Hatchery).
http://www.marysturkeys.com/art.%20Business%20Week.htm
They're based in Fresno and they sell their turkeys at Whole Foods. I'm going to go see if I can reserve one in time.
http://www.marysturkeys.com/
UPDATE: I found out that Mary’s does clip beaks. 